Start Tomato Seedlings and Others Easy!

All you will need for this little project is some Tomato Seeds, Disposable Frozen Food Trays (cleaned), Some Clear Plastic Wrap, A hammer and Large nail for punching holes in the Trays, and a light soil mix. A dark, warm closet would be nice but you can use a box under the bed if you want.The large Under-The-Bed Plastic Storage Boxes work great. Just put your trays of seeds in them, close the lid, put under the bed and laugh at the Cats. They can smell fresh soil a mile away!


1.  Prepare the Frozen Food Tray.

    Using the hammer and a large nail (10 penny spike is good) punch several holes from the inside of the tray out. Round out the holes. The ragged edge should be to the outside. This will provide drainage and a means to water the trays later on when the plants are up. You may grow them for several days in these trays before you have to transplant them into a bigger tray or individual pots. The Aunt Jemima Breakfast Frozen Food Trays work great for me. They are actually paper covered with a plastic seal inside and can stand several months of use before deteriorating. You can actually give them a coat or two of spray paint and they can last several years with careful use.

2. Prepare the Seeding Soil

I found a good mix from "Organic Gardening" this year and I have used their formula with slight modification. It looks like it will work great and closely resembles the one I usually use. You might pick up the complete article at:     http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/blend-your-own-seed-starting-mix

              Rodale Seed Starting Soil Mix
   

• 4 parts Screened Compost - ( I used Screened Cotton Boll) - Found at most Gardening Supplies.
• 1 part Perlite ( I screened this too - To get larger chunks out that can harm roots when Transplanting.
• 1 part Vermiculite
•  2parts sphagnum peat moss and/or Coir - An "Eco-Friendly Peat Alternative made from Coconut  Husks - Also used to make Floor Mats, Door Mats and Mattresses!

   

 a

I used a 24 oz empty Cottage Cheese Tub to measure out my Ingrediants. This amount seems to work well for me to make a sack full of mix.   I put the ingredients in an old Dog Watering tray and mixed it thoroughly.  I then added a half cup of water at a time and mixed until it had a nice damp feel to it through out.  I ended up with about 8 quarts of mix.  Which fit nicely into an empty 8 Quart

Perlite - Rezip Bag. I then glued a big white label to the front with the Seed Mix Soil name and formula. Rubber cement the sack area where you want to put the label and Rubber Cement the back of the label itself. Wait for both to become almost dry then stick down. I used a 3 X 6 notecard to make the label. Rezip garden product bags are great, because they keep the new mix moist and hold a reasonable amount of mix. I seeded almost 30 paper trays and used 3 sacks (24oz) approximately of my soil mix to fill the trays for seeding. I still have most of the Warmer Crops to seed and start so I will have to mix up a few sacks more. In just a week or two, most of the Cool Weather crops (Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflour, Spinach, Lettuce, Onions, Paisleys, etc.  should be going into the ground. If the soil temperature is 40 to 45 degrees they will be ok. A little protection might be in order for a few weeks if the night temperatures do not stay above 40 degrees. I will probably set them in the hoop-house as transplants in paper pots until I feel safe about the weather turning towards spring.

3. Load the Tray with Soil.

Load the tray with Seeding Soil Mix to about half full. Gently press it down. Don't forget the sides. Finish filling the tray to the top. Gently press the soil down again with a slight pressure of the hand. This is to press the air out of the soil a bit - not to seal it like concrete! G-e-n-t-l-y is sufficient.

4. Make Furrows or Poke Holes in the soil. 

Check your seed package. What is the recommended depth to plant the seeds. Use this same depth to plant the seeds in the trays. Disregard furrow width. Plant the seeds a minimum of 1" apart in a row. Make the rows about 3/4 to 1 inch apart. This is a pretty temporary home and in most cases, you will be soon be transplanting the small plants into a bigger and deeper tray or into individual pots so they have room to grow. When they become crowded, they will Stop growing and start crowding each other out.

I just used a pencil and pressed down 6 furrows in the tray to about 1/4 inch deep. The recommended planting depth for Tomato seeds. 

5. Seed the Furrows (or holes). Here you see a little of both.

I placed the seeds as you might be able to see about 1 inch apart. I want plenty of room to be able to "dibble" out the baby plants when it is time to move them to individual pots or a deeper tray. [ A Cake Pan with holes is good if you want to move to a larger and deeper tray for a few weeks. You can use regular potting mix for transplanting.].

6,  Lightly cover the seeds with a more seeding soil to the recommended depth. Again press the soil down gently to firm in the seeds.

7.  Label the Tray.

I've tried several methods. This seems to work the best. Use 3 x 6 card stock and cut a piece about 1" wide by as wide as the card (3"). Print the Plant name, date, and any other info you like. Run a strip of rubber cement along one end of the tray. Set it aside to dry. Turn the label over and apply rubber cement to the back and allow to dry a little. Press the label to the tray. This will produce a very good bond. If you want to protect the label from dampness just run a few strips of scotch tape across it. 

8. Gently Water in the Seeds.

Use a fine mist and dampen the surface of the seeded tray well. Short of actually trying to wet it down. I found these neat little watering spray bottles in the gardening section of the Dollar Store. They cost a $1.

Their easy to handle and hold about 12 ounces of water. Plenty good for our use. It is adjustable from a jet to a fine mist.

9. Use Plastic Wrap or a Freezer Bag to make a little greenhouse  and a warm, draft-free seed sprouting atmosphere 

Just slip it into a Freezer Bag of the right size and leave one end slightly open to allow fresh air to pass in.

I am using a foot square or sow of Plastic Wrap. I scotch tape the wrap from the under side on the back and both sides near the middle and leave the end loosely open for fresh air. I never have a "dampening-off problem. I also pull the trays out of the Freezer Bag or fold back the Plastic Wrap for an hour each day to the fresh air, then close the ends slightly but still leave a little air hole. Then put them away back in my closet cabinet specially built to hold plant trays. It also works as a small handy pantry when the plant sprouting season is over! You may see it in one of my other plant starting articles. Lettuce is one of the few plants that need a little light to sprout. The herb, Summer Savory is another. Most Garden plants in my experience do not.

10. The finished product!

Addendum: Feb 19, 2012:

The day after planting the Tomato Seeds, I seeded Cabbages. This is the result. 3 days later.

                A Close up of the Baby Cabbages Sprouting

Showing most of the tray with the center plants in 

focus. About 1/3 of the total has sprouted all ready.

Now I will need to rush them under a plant light and be sure they remain warm and damp and get plenty of fresh air. The sprouting will continue to finish very quickly. After the plants start sprouting well, I remove the plastic covering completely but they must remain out of cold drafts and still get fresh air. They still need lots of protection. I will set these under a lamp for a few days then place them in my planter where they will receive light, warmth, and protection from strong sun for several day or weeks of growth. When the plants seem to be getting crowded and have their "Real" leafs, I will be placing [transplanting] them into 2" pots. 

Addendum: February 26, 2012

This is how the Cabbage Seedlings look 10 Days Later:

These Cabbages are about Life-Size in this Picture

Appendum March 6, 2012: The Cabbage Seedlings are getting their true leaves and are going into pots tomorrow. I will put them in the Hoop House to adjust to muted sunlight for about a week then set into the garden. Likewise the Cauliflower, Broccoli, Lettuce and Spinach.

Thanks for stopping by! Your comments are welcome and you may e-mail me personally at RobertLee97@GMail.Com if you have any gardening questions. Your e-mail address stays with us. We do not market names!  I would especially like to hear more from the Wichita and Wichita Metro Area. Tell me about your garden. Let's compare notes!  I am looking to start an All Kansas Gardening Club.  Plant Exchanging, Sources, Vegetable and Plant Marketing, Farmers Market News. Etc. Your ideas are very welcome.

Cheers! Happy Gardening!

Bob

GrandBob

          

 
   
        

Time to Start Cool Weather Seedlings Indoors - and Other Vegetables

News Flash - February 15, 2012
Brand New USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map has been finally published! Due to Global Warning Symptoms, great changes have been made in the traditional map. The seed packages of your favorite Garden Seed Companies have been produced too early to
be useful this year. Some states have changed as much as 2 zones.
My area near Wichita, Kansas is rated as 6b but because of my own microclimate. (Well protected from the North Winds, I am gambling and using the Zone 7 rating that begins about 30 miles further South on the Oklahoma border and a snip of South Central Kansas.  To check your new zone, view this map and just input your zip code. Your updated Zone will come right up. Go To: http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/

It may look terrible dreary outside about now ( February 13 ) But here in South Central Kansas, it’s time to start seeds for cool weather plants like Cabbages, Spinach, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, Celery, Parsley etc.  So start your seedlings indoors right now.

Start Tomato and Pepper seedlings indoors from February 15 thru February 29.  These can be started even later but will be set back a little from setting them out a little late. The New USDA Plant Hardiness Zone for the Wichita area and on South is Zone 6b but I use 7 because it is so close and for other reasons.

Earliest Set out dates:

Tomatoes – With protection – (Cloche,  Cold Frame, Etc.  – April 1

Tomatoes- No protection – from May 1.  I have set out tomato plants as late as Mid June to 1^st of July but you are really pressing your luck to see them produce into the first frost.  Romas may make it, the others are iffy.

Peppers: Sweet Peppers  can be set out from about May 15 to  June 1. Anytime earlier than  May will still be too cool and the Peppers will not grow. They will just set there until the weather is warmer!  I found that I can plant Hot Peppers even later and they will have enough time to  mature before first frost.

I checked this information out with the Sedgwick County Extension Office in Wichita.  As with all gardening,  early set-out times are a Gamble. You may be caught with a late freeze. Always check your weekly forecast and be sure to cross your fingers!

One method you may have heard about how to protect tender plants (such as Tomatoes) from the cold is to set them under 2 liter Soda Bottles with the bottoms cut off.  2 Cautions:

1.     Leave the caps off during the heat of the day – your plants may cook otherwise.

2.     Drill about 6 quarter- inch holes  about an inch above the soil base to allow fresh air to come in during the heat of the day. Again, with the caps off. so your plants won’t cook!  Again.  Always remember to cap them up during the night and Remove the caps at sunup!

When to Set Out Cool Weather Plants:

Two Weeks before Last Freeze

   Broccoli

   Cauliflower

   Parsley

   Swiss Chard

   Beets

   Turnips

Four Weeks Before Last Frost

Cabbage

Collards

Kale

Kohlrabi

Lettuce

Mustard

Onions

Spinach (up to 6 weeks !)

When to Set Out Warm Weather Crops

2 Weeks After Last Freeze

Corn

Cucumbers

Basil

Eggplant

Melons

Okra

Peppers

Pumpkins

Squash

Tomatoes

How to Make a Miniature Kitchen Table Greenhouse

How to Make a Miniature Kitchen Table Greenhouse 

Here it is, the depth of winter  and I'm caught with Stevia plants that I need to keep alive till Spring when I can set them out safely. At the end of last fall, after harvesting the only Stevia plant I had - which is an annual in the Midwest U.S.;  all I could do was save some of the more viable stems and try to root them. My success rate was about 40%.  So.  Now what? How can I keep them alive till Spring without spending a lot of money on a heated greenhouse? I decide to build a miniature greenhouse that could be set in any room and keep my plants alive till Spring.


 I needed something small, easy, and fast to protect my new Stevia starts until I could come up with something better. I took my little potted starts and put them in an ordinary rectangle cake pan. Shoved them into a semi-clear plastic grocery bag, And put them under a goose neck desk lamp with one of those fancy new corkscrew fluorescent lights. They give off good plant light but little or no heat. The light was the Equivalent of a 100 watt light source but uses about 27 watts of electricity. This kept my plants pretty snug until I could come up with something better. I then planned out and built this tiny greenhouse. The size of a Cake Pan. The plants go in the pan, and the little greenhouse just sets over it. That's it. Keep the lights on about 12 to 16 hours a day and water when necessary.
Your new babies should thrive. Oh. Keep in a warm room.  Normal temperature for humans is great. Take the plants out on occasion and mist them if the seem to be too dry. They can be damp in the soil and still be hurt by dry air in a home especially with gas heating. 

    MATERIAL:

• A Sheet of fairly Clear Plastic - About 3 Ft x 4 Ft. This can be gotten from a $1 Painting sheet at the Dollar Store or Storm window material at the hardware store, or (more expensive ) rolls of plastic at 2, 4, 6 mil thickness in rolls at the Big Box store or local hardware store.

• About 20 Sturdy Thumbtacks or Carpet Tacks

• 5 ft of 1x2 or 1 x3 fairly Clear Lumber.(I used cabinet grade plywood strips because that is what I had handy.)

• Standard Size Rectangle Cake Pan. 

• 10 ft. of Heavy Wire - #9 or approx. 1/8 inch thickness. Aluminum is easy to bend but more expensive than regular wire for farm use etc. Sometimes called clothesline wire but must be stiff,  not braided plastic covered type.

• 1" Wire Brads (small headless nails )

• Waterproof Wood Glue ( I use Titebond III (R).

TOOLS

• Hand Saw to cut the wood strips to length

• Hand Power Drill  to drill holes to hold wire hoops in wood strips and Drill Bit slightly larger than wire thickness. Wire should fit snug in the hole. Not tight or loose.

• Tape Measure

• Scissors to trim plastic to size

• Small Hammer

• Wire Cutter (or Hack Saw) to make a nice clean square cut.

• Drawing Compass A $1 cheap Dollar Store School Compass will work fine. A pencil is usually provided.

First cut the wood strips. Measure  the length and width of the cake pan at the widest parts (Top edges) and add about 1/4 inch to the length and width of the pieces so the pan will easily slide in and out of the wood frame. 

 I used thinner wood strips on the ends because I didn't need the thickness to support wire hoops. It helped make the whole thing a little lighter. First glue the ends. Then hammer in about 3 brads. Also try to keep the frame squared up as possible.  Make 2 diagonal measurements from one end to the other and then from the opposite corners (diagonally again.) The two measurements should be within a 16th of an inch or so and the frame will be square. If not, check for accurate measurements  on the strip lengths. 

Next, Drill two wire hoop holes on each end straight across from each other. Then two evenly spaced holes on each side evenly spaced and across from each other. Try to keep the holes straight up and down in the wood and centered.

How to Make the Hoops

Once the wood frame is finished. It is time to make a Template to measure off your wire and to shape it to make 4  nice hoops. Measure across from one hole in the frame to the opposite hole. This is the measurement that will give you the diameter of a circle. 

Draw out the Circle on a board or heavy cardboard or your wife's kitchen table...lightly so you can erase it before she catches you!

Cut the circle in half. This is the curve of your hoop. Draw down from the ends of the half circle a straight line on each side. The straight lengths should be around 7 inches or so long. Measure the total length around the template. Start from one straight end and continue up around the curve and down the other side. This gives you the length of wire to cut.

Cut 4 wire lengths to this measurement. They should be somewhere around 29 or 30 inches.

Bend the wires to match the Template. You now have 4 nice hoops.

Insert the wire hoops into the wood frame. They should fit snug but not tight so you can push them into the holes without bending the wire. I have used a piece of tape to indicate on the wire when it is completely in the hole. All wires should inset to the same length. From at least 1" to the full length of the height of the frame. The longer the better but also the harder to get in. 


When all the wires are installed in the wood frame. Lay the plastic cover over the hoops and even out on the ends and the sides. Snug up the plastic cover, Thumbtack to the bottom of the frame. Trim off the extra. You may now set the little greenhouse frame over the cake pan full of little plants. Set a light over them and you are fixed to go! I find that a  desk lamp at each end gives plenty of light for starting new seedlings, cuttings, etc.

Copyright 2012 Robert Mader

All Rights Reserved

For any additional questions, just e-mail me at 

RobertLee97@Gmail.Com

Laying on the Hoop-House/Cloche Cover 9 of 9

Laying on the Cover

At this point you are ready to lay on the plastic and securing it down. But first detach the upper section of each hinge from the Cloche Frame. Do Not detach the lower section of the Hinges from the Raised Bed. this will allow you to attach the plastic to the Frame. Close the hinges over the plastic. And screw the top of the hinges to the frame again going through the plastic. 

Notice that there are 4 thin batten board strips cut to length to fit

between the Hinges in the middle and one for each end. These will be 

used later to secure the plastic in place after it is pulled into place. 

The copper nails are used to quickly tack the plastic to the frame.

Start by pulling the plastic into place. Be sure you have extra plastic on each end. A good way to temporarily hold the plastic from blowing or slipping askew is to use a few large plastic clips found at most hardware and big box stores. They kind of resemble giant plastic clothes pins. Or just have a few friends hold the plastic in place.  Start on the hinged side. leave a few inches extra hanging  and tack every foot or so with a brass nail. Go to the other side, pull the plastic snug but not tight and tack down with brass nails along the full length also.

Procede to each end and tack down leaving a few inches to roll under a couple times before permanently screwing down the batten strips.  

Start the small 1" Dry Wall Screws into the Batten

Boards before screwing them over the rolled plastic ends.

Install the Battons over the tacked down plastic

all the way around the Cloche. 

Trim off the extra plastic. Attach a handle to the open

side of the cloche. Inexpensive metal handles may be

purchased at the Hardware Store. Your finished! 

If you have any questions about building this Cloche, Contact me.

RobertLee97@gmail.com

Links to Article Sections

Part 1: Introduction, Tool List.

Part 2: Material List
Part 3: Making the Wood Frame, Making Ribs and Glueing
Part 4: Making Dowel Anchors
Part 5: Making the Cloche Dowel Anchores (More)
Part 6: More Dowel Anchor-Slipping on Ribs-Attaching Backbone
Part 7: Setting in Hinges
Part 8: Measuring/Cutting the Plastic Cover

Attaching and Securing the Hoop-House/Cloche Cover

Part 9: Attaching the Cloche/Hoop-House Cover

Copyright Robert Mader 2012

All Rights Reserved

How to Make a Cloche/Hoop-House - Part 7 of 9

Setting the Hinges

The hinges are actually the fasteners that attach the Cloche Wooden Frame to the Raised Bed Frame. You must first attach the blocks - one on top of the other - but not connected. Use the edge of the Frame to give you a level, straight,  line to screw the top 3 blocks to. After attaching these, attach the bottom blocks to the Raised Bed Timbers or Boards directly under the top row of blocks. You will then center the 3 hinges over the 3 sets of blocks and screw them to each block. Be sure they are also In Line with the blocks. Otherwise, the blocks and hinges may bind and not allow the Cloche to hinge open.

Contrary to the Photo, The size of the hinges have been increased from 1-1/2

inches to 3 inches long. The Center Hinge is still in the Center and the 2 Outer

Hinges have been set closer to the ends for better stability. The Stakes, string and Timbers 

to the Left of the picture are part of  another GrandBob's Garden Projects. How to Build 

Raised Beds   from Inexpensive Landscape Timbers. These will be Beds # 4 and #5  for me and are 

the ideal solution to bad soil - clay soil conditions - once and for all! I try to add one or two each year.

The rest of my garden grows (thank you very much) in Small or Large Boxes and set on the Grass!

Here is a Close-Up view of 2 sets of Hinges and Wood Brackets. Notice One half of the bracket

is attached to the Frame. The other half is attached to the Raised Bed Timber. The Hinges themselves Join

the two halves of each Bracket  and allow the whole assembly to open and close easily and help stabilize. 

Also notice how the Wooden Brackets bridge the gap between the dissimilar Timber and Frame side pieces and allow one to install the Hinges on flush mountings. 

Links to Article Sections

Part 1: Introduction, Tool List.

Part 2: Material List
Part 3: Making the Wood Frame, Making Ribs and Glueing
Part 4: Making Dowel Anchors
Part 5: Making the Cloche Dowel Anchores (More)
Part 6: More Dowel Anchor-Slipping on Ribs-Attaching Backbone
Part 7: Setting in Hinges
Part 8: Measuring/Cutting the Plastic Cover

Attaching and Securing the Hoop-House/Cloche Cover

Part 9: Attaching the Cloche/Hoop-House Cover

.

Copyright Robert Mader 2012

All Rights Reserved

How to Make a Cloche/Hoop-House Part 6 of 9

More on Installing the Dowel Anchor Pegs into the Frame

Wow! We're almost done with the fabrication of the Choche/Hoop-House. The last step except for setting the frame on the Raised Bed and Covering it is to Set the Dowel Anchors.

You first need to cut for evenly space holes in the sides and ends 

of the Cloche Frame. One hole for each end and two spaced equally along the sides. The hole in this case uses a 7/8 inch wide bit to accommodate a 7/8 inch Dowel end. 

If the hole is slightly to large, use toothpicks to wedge the glued Dowel Anchors in tight. They will set in permanently. If the hole is slightly too small, sand or rasp the down down to fit in snugly. I drive mine in with a hammer. However, if they are too tight, you could split your 2 X 2.  You don't want that! And don't forget the Waterproof Glue. Both in the hole and around the peg end.

Don't put Glue on the Pipe End. This allows you to remove the Ribs and to break down the Cloche/Hoop-House for storage later on if you so wish. Or to facilitate moving it to a different bed.

 Here you can clearly see how the 1-1/2

inch Peg end of the Cloche Anchor fits

 into the Frame. Be sure to apply glue to

Both the Peg and the Frame Hole it goes in. 

Do not Force the peg in. Sand or Rasp down

if it fits to tight in the hole.

This is another view of a plug securely installed.

Here you can make out how the 8 pegs are laid out.

4 on the ends, and 4 equally spaced on each side. Try 

to match up the pegs on opposite sides as close as

you can. Slight warps in the lumber should not cause 

any big problems. When you have all the Dowel Anchor pegs installed, 

Just slip the 4 finished Rib assemblies onto the protruding Pegs. You could put small screws

 through the pipes and into the pegs but I haven't fount that to be necessary. The cover will 

hold them on anyway. My Cloche has easily withstood 65mph + winds already when closed. 

Without latching or tying down the cover or screwing the frame to the Raised Bed . The Cloche

 is attached to the Raised Bed with just the 3 Hinges that we will soon be installing. 

Slip the Pipe Rib Assemblies on to the Pegs 

The Ribs have been installed. It is now time to set the frame on the Raised Bed. 

You might want to remove the Rib Pipes temporarily to facilitate moving the frame.

I have found that the pipes do not have to be fastened any further to the frame than

setting them over the pegs. That is why snug accurate fit is important. The soon to be attached

covering will also keep the pipes from pulling out.

Here we have attached the single 2 x 2 x 8 Ft

"Spine" to the Cloche Ribs at the top. I just set a screw

down through each pipe in the center of the small pipe, and down 

into the spine. You Might enlist a friend to help you with this. Or 

Just wire it up temporarily until all the screws are in. I fashioned

a little Jig to help hold the screws until they are set. Here you will also 

notice how the Hinges are attached on the prevailing wind side. (North

for Winter in this case. 

Here is the simple jig I fashioned out of a scrap block of wood. 

I first drilled a hole the same size at the outside of the pipe. Then I punched a hole in the block to guide a Bit.

when I set the block astraddle the very center of the rib (very top) The block was then cut down the middle of the Pipe hole and one of the halves discarded. The jig sets on top of the pipe to guide a small bit down

 through the pipe and into the  Backbone piece. Then a screw is dropped

 in and easily fastens the wooden Backbone  to each Rib.The screw hole should be slightly smaller than the screw you are using. Use a practice piece to check that out. To small the screw will split the pipe. Not good.

To large, the pipe will separate from the center spine that you are screwing into.

A better view. Notice how the spine is centered through each Rib 

and attached with a single 1-3/4 inch  drywall screw. And yes, the front is slightly off center. 

I will have to fix that some day.... That's what I get for "eye-balling" when I'm tired!  This is where I 

finished up for the day and went in for clean-up and Dinner.  I finished up the next day.  I was bushed!

 This shows how the Cloche Frame sets on top of the Raised Bed Timbers.

Links to Article Sections

Part 1: Introduction, Tool List.

Part 2: Material List
Part 3: Making the Wood Frame, Making Ribs and Glueing
Part 4: Making Dowel Anchors
Part 5: Making the Cloche Dowel Anchores (More)
Part 6: More Dowel Anchor-Slipping on Ribs-Attaching Backbone
Part 7: Setting in Hinges
Part 8: Measuring/Cutting the Plastic Cover

Attaching and Securing the Hoop-House/Cloche Cover

Part 9: Attaching the Cloche/Hoop-House Cover

Copyright Robert Mader 2012

All rights Reserved