Showing posts with label Saving Seeds. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Saving Seeds. Show all posts

Monday, January 10, 2011

How to Start Seedling Tomatoes and Peppers Before Spring

Question: "How can I save "found Tomato and Pepper Seeds in the Garden?"

If you found some peppers and tomatoes in last years garden, they are probably pretty dried out all ready. No problem. Just cut them open and scrape the seeds out. If they don't look black and dusty gray, they probably are viable. They probably are stuck together in clumps. just try to rub them apart alittle.

How to Test Your Seeds
So as you don't plant bad seeds. After breaking them apart (probably to late to clean them up much, put about 10 or 20 seeds down on a damp paper towel. Space them apart about an inch and then put another damp (not soggy) paper towel on top. (Sandwich them) . Roll the up in a tube and put them in a plastic freezer bag. One for the tomatoes and another for the peppers. Do Not Zip the bags completely closed. A slightl opening along the end is good. Put them in a cake pan or small sack and put them in a warm closet  or on top of the refrigerator.

Testing Out Your Seeds for Viability
Once a day, open the bag mouth and alow fresh air to circulate for about an hour. If the towels seem a little dry, dampen them again. You may peek at the seeds for a few seconds. They should be swelling a little after a day or two. The tomatoes should start sprouting within 5 to 10 days. The peppers from 10 to 20 days. Also allow a fresh air break every day (about an hour) then put them away in the warm closet. - 70 t0 75 degrees. It must be warm enough for the seeds to sprout, If it is too cool, they will not sprout and will eventually just rot. When the seeds start sprouting, they should be finished within a few days. Count the seeds, if you get at least 80 percent sprouting, they are excellent - 50 or better still OK -  But not as viable. Nurserys are happy with 80 percent.

Saving your own dried seeds
As to the seeds still in the dessicated Tomatoes and Peppers found outside. I assume they are all stuck together with fibers. Just try to break them apart and rub them between your fingers so you can plant the seeds individually later. If they aren't completely dry, spread them out in a paper plate and set where it is warm and dry for at least a week then put in baggies or mailing envelopes, old pill bottles. Mail envelopes cut in half and retaped. If you are getting your seeds from fresh mature fruit - follow my instructions for Saving Seeds found at my Blog. Http://GrandBobsGarden.Blogspot.Com


Be sure to Label your Containers
Be sure to Plainly mark the out side with the name and the date  when you put them in the bag, pill bottle  etc. You can get new bottles at any pharmacy at a reasonable cost. These are great. Us address label to Mark the contents.

Starting Seedlings in your Closet
For starting inside before spring planting out, you need a dry, warm, dark place  for starting most seedlings from seeds. I use my closet. A few seeds actually need a little light to sprout! Check your seed packet.  Be sure the temperature is at least a constant 70 degrees. 75 is better. 80 degrees for Peppers. I turn on my 100 watt incondescent (regular) closet lite 24\7. until the sprouting is finished. This keeps the closet warm enough.  Check with a thermometer.

If it is too cool the seeds won't sprout and will just rot in the cool, damp soil. You might use a Kitchen Cabinet with a closed door or curtain to stop cool air drafts.  Plant the seeds at the recommende depth on the seed packet.  (1/4" for tomatos and peppers). Plant in something like a cake pan or a TV tray with plastic rap over it. Plant in rows about an inch apart, with the seeds at least an inch apart from each other in the rows. You can start a lot of seeds in a cake pan. A small TV Tray - about 60 or so. I use the ones with the cake pans with the plastic snap-on lids. But I never snap the lid on. Just lay in on.  Wether using A Cake Pan with a lid or Plastic wrap over a TV dinner tray ( cheap!) always be sure to leave a slight air gap 24/7. 1/8 to 1/4 inch is good. The idea is to keep the soil moist at all times, but allow a little fresh air to waif over the soil occassionally to prevent mold or "dampening off" that kills tiny baby plants just as they emerge.

Before Planting Seed Starter Plants Indoors
Moisten the soil. Add a little water at a time before putting it in the pans and planting your seeds. Use plastic gloves if you haven't had a tetinus shot. Mix it well with your hands. Put some in your fist and squeeze. If no water comes out or it falls apart when you open you hand, add a little more water until it hangs together a few seconds but doesn't squeeze out water. If it is to wet - add more dry soil to get the right consistency. Never Soggy. Never use Plain Dirt or Garden Soil to start seedlings. It's too heavy for the new seeds to sprout and emerge. Use a slightly sifted potting soil mix. I use 1 part sifted potting soil, 1 part Vermiculite, 1 part Perlite, Just get the large sticks and particles out of the potting soil. Cheap is good. The materials should be sterile. If using your own soil mix or reused potting soil, you may want to stick it in an oven or microwave  for a while to help kill dangerous  bacterias to plants and/ or bugs or bug eggs. Very smelly! Experiment with times and temperature. Soil should be hot to the touch. Allow to cool to room temperature before using. About 165 to 185 degrees is good. Use a meat thermometer etc.

Non Fertilizer type Potting Soil - Cheap is Good!
Don't use the fertilizer added type to start seedlings. You could use  1 part compost, 1 part Perlite, 1 part Peat or "Spagnum Moss". Mix well and dampen.  Use fertilizer only after the plants are transplanted and have gotten their real leaves. The "false leaves"  or "Cotaledens" come right out of the seeds and are the food for the new baby plants until they get their real leaves. Before true leaves, fertilizer can easily kill them.
A sprouting bean show the Cotoleden the best.

                                       Use Gloves if you are not Sure of Your Tetanus Shots!
 Mix your soil mix well and dampen it with a little warm water at a time  Use your gloves. (Gardening is a Real Danger for Older Folks who may have not had a Tetanus Shot in the last 10 years!)   Several hundred elderly die yearly after picking up tetanus from small sores on their hands. Tetanus is every present in Garden Soil. Kids are usually adequately innoculated against tetanus.

Putting Soil in the "Tray"
(I often use empty tv trays and freezer bags to cover the seed trays)

Buy a Squirt Bottle at the Dollar Store. You will lightly mist the soil at least once a day with warm water to keep it moist  Also air the tray ( Completely remove the covering) at least an hour every day and then recover.  Always leave a little opening to allow air to get in and out. If everything is in a freezer bag, I leave at least 1/2 of the "lock" lip slid open. If I use a Cake Pan with a Plastic Lid, I set the lid on loosely with a slit opening about 1/4" for air to enter and exit at all times.

"Dampening Off" fungus - a Killer Disease of
Baby Plants - is almost always present in all soils!
Keeping a little air vent at all times helps prevent "dampening off" a fungus that quickly  rots the stems of the new plants at ground level causing them to fall over and die in a day or two. It Can happen within a few hours, overnight while you sleep. There is no cure and a little constant air-flow is the best preventative. It almost always works for me.

Putting Your Seedlings Under Lights

As soon as the seedlings start to come up, Put them under lights. Direct sun at this stage may kill them. However, 100 watt Florescent Bulbs are good and can be as close as 1 or 2 inches from the seedlings without scorching the. You Can use Incandescent Lamps but they can easily burn the plants if they are close enough to be effective. A plastic tent structure around an open shelf can usually be set up. Don't let it get below 65 degrees and not over 80. Degrees. 70 is about best. To warm and the plants may grow to fasts. And become spindly and weak. cooler is best.

When to Plant Seedlings Inside for Later Planting Outside in the Spring
If you want to start your own seedlings for later planting out in the Spring, you will need to have some kind of indoor or outdoor Greenhouse Environment that will be good for at least 6 or even 8 weeks. I will be starting my seedlings in late February or Early March inside for setting outside in late April or early May into a "protected environment " ( Hoop House or under Plastic Covers.) until all danger of frost is over. Call your local nursery for planting out dates. In my Zone 6B or (7 by new "climate warming - Arbor Day - designation; that would be anywhere from May 1st to May 15. Tomatoes can go out a little earlier under protection, and peppers wont grow a drop until the weather is fairly warm. 

Where to get your Garden Plants if your not growing your own Seedlings

I use Dutch's on South Seneca here in Wichita, but all the regular nurseries can give you good information about when to set your plants out.  Ask early! They will be very busy later. But all are a good source of information. You will get little or none at the Big Box Stores. The Plant Nurserys have Plant People to help you. The Big Box stores have clerks that may or may not know anything about plants. Get on the Nurseries' Mailing List  or e-mail list to stay informed and don't be afraid to call them. The want Newbies if you have a question and Oldies if your checking for supplies etc. So get their number and Call Them.

Caution - Early Plant Sales!
About April you may see plants being set out in the "Big Box" stores for sale. Don't think you can put these out in the Garden unprotected just because their selling them now! If you will notice, they have their plants inside to start or in a protected environment outside until it really warms up in the spring. They know you have Spring Fever! 

 How to Contact Me For More Information





Friday, August 20, 2010

Re: [gardenmessenger] Saving Seeds - SeedSavers

A Short  Course in Storing Seeds From Your Garden
and How to Test Their Viability (Germination Rate)
Seed Storage Containers
Pill Bottles are great. You can usually purchase new ones at any pharmacy. Also, if you can find them, Change Envelopes are good. Your best bet for finding these is an Office Supply Store. Staples, Office Max, Etc. Or use a regular letter envelope - used or new - cut in half. Put the seeds inside and seal the envelope with scotch tape if necessary.  Be sure to date them and label them as to what they are on the outside!
2 important points:  1. Store them in a dry but never hot place. 2. Store them out of the light.
On top of the fridg in the Kitchen is not recommended!  A cool, dry, closet works. A hot garage is out. So is a high shelf close to the ceiling where it is always the hottest part of any room.  Room temperatures of 72 degrees or less should be fine for most seeds. The warmer it is the faster they will deteriorate. The cooler the better. I would not recommend freezing unless you Know this is the recommended way to store this specific seed.
No matter what I do, Onions, Chives, etc. usually never germinate worth a darn after a year or so old. Other seeds do much better. Seed Companies strive for at least 85% germination. Some seeds are just hard to germinate.
How to Test for Viability
To test yours out, lay out 10 to 20 seeds in a damp (never wet or dry) paper towel sandwich.p Roll the sandwich up like a jelly roll and place in a large freezer bag. leave the bag unzipped about a half inch to allow a little air to get in. Set on a lowly lit shelf.
Every day pull the jelly roll out and check to see that it is still moist and allow to lay out of the bag for about an hour to allow fresh air to circulate. Then put the roll back into the bag. Check on an old seed package or in a garden book to the usual length of germination. About that time, start unrolling the roll to check the seeds. When they start sprouting, wait till the sprouting finishes. Count the seeds. If you planted 10 and 5 sprouted, you have of course 50 % germination. 8 sprouts = 80%. The more sets of 10's you start at the same time, of course, the more accurate you true germination rate.
To practice this, get some new radish seeds and experiment with this before testing any of  you valuable seeds. Radishes is good conditions come up is sometimes less than 48 hours. Always get as much information as you can about the recommended germination time and conditions. Some seeds require Light to sprout. Most don't.

A great book on Seed Saving is : "Seed to Seed" by Suzanne Ashworth. You can easily find a copy new or used on Ebay or from Amazon. Copyright Seed Savers Exchange 2002 Inc. Website - WWW. Seedsavers.Org

Cheers!
Bob

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

How To Save Tomato Seeds



It's roundup time for most gardeners. Clean up the garden a bit. Put up the tools. Sit back with a cold beer or glass of ice tea and just rest awhile in the shade. Enjoy the coming fall. The cool. The color. The pollens... Even the butterflies.
Yesterday, I was carrying out some fermented juice from a muskmelon which is a by product of extracting seeds from pulp. Anyway, I spilled the tiniest bit of juice on one of my fingers that was holding the pan. There was a flutter next to my ear. A butterfly resembling a monarch landed on my knuckle and start sucking away what I'm sure was for him an ambrosia of the gods! I waited for him to leave. And waited, and waited... Finally, I turned around, walked up the back steps of the patio and opened the double doors to the kitchen, and walked in. The butterfly still perched on my knuckle. It's long syphon still sucking up the juice on my knuckle. I show it to my grand kids and daughter who said it was a sign of good luck. I seen it as a blessing. I turned around and walked back outside. He stayed a few more minutes until he had his fill, then suddenly flew away.
Folks, isn't it great to be a gardener. And now- back to work.
=============================

But for some of us. We're not quite finished. We're maybe eyeing that big overripe tomato on the counter and wandering if we should save some seeds for next years garden, or as a gift to a garden friend or maybe our kids starting their own gardens. How about that special Black Tomato or Tiger tomato you picked up at the Farmers Market. Wouldn't you like to try That next year in your own garden. Or maybe even those great Roma's you picked up at the Supermarket yesterday.

Or just maybe you suddenly realized how fast the Old Fashioned -Heirloom favorites are vanishing from the seed counter and even from the garden Catalogs. Some by accident and others, I fear, by design. Some say even ordinary vegetables are being genetically altered so they can be patented and "Owned" by hungry agricultural conglomerates - who would like to control all seeds. Even the ones the cottage gardener like you and I would plant. They want to make it Illegal to even save your own seeds as has happened with most varieties of field Corn and Soybeans. Is it really happening in the Cottage Garden? And to the independent Truck Farmer? I don't know. But it wouldn't hurt to save all the varieties of seeds you can before they vanish! Maybe we should have started a long time ago.

Here is everything you need to know to save all the Tomato Seeds you want. There are clearly 4 separate stages. Preparation. Fermentation. Drying and Preservation.

A. Preparation
Tools and Materials You Will Need:
Knife to cut a tomato.

A Spoon - A grapefruit spoon works nicely.

A Fork.

A large Tea Strainer - 4 to 6 -inch diameter is good.

A Coffee Filter - A paper or cotton towel will work in a pinch.

A Small Funnel

A paper plate or ceramic plate etc will work

A Kitchen sink or other source of running water is handy.

Rubber Gloves for sensitive hands

&

A Small Open Mouthed Plastic bottle preferably with the original screw-on lid. Often used for Orange Juice, Chocolate Milk, Gatorade etc. This will become your fermenting bottle. Or an ordinary Jar with a hole in the top would work too.
Lets Begin

1. Find a nice specimen of the Tomato you want to save seeds from. This should be ripe - even a little over ripe wouldn't hurt! We want to be sure the seeds inside are mature.
2. Carefully slice the tomato horizontally through the middle.


Using the grapefruit spoon, dig out all the gel and seed matter unto a plate.


4. Using the Fork and a plate, gently work the pulp and seeds down to a texture of juice and seeds. Do not press hard on seeds so as to damage them.
5. Pour the pulp into the Tea Strainer.

6. Carry the Tea Strainer and the Pulp to the sink and start working out some of the pulp through the strainer in full running water.


7. Using your fingers, gently rub the Gel through the screen as you run water through. Best use rubber gloves as the screen may abrade and scratch your fingers. Remember, some tomatoes are very acid. This plus scratching the tips of your fingers on the Tea Strainer is a recipe for sore fingers for several days.

This is a messy process but you will get used to it. Here I show rubbing the pulp and gel through but I would advise using throw-away plastic gloves or rubber gloves if your skin is sensitive.

Eventually most of the Gel will disappear down the drain and you will be able to pick out most clumps of remaining tomato pulp.


9. After a few minutes of rinsing and working, almost all the Gel is gone and most of the Pulp. Pick out as much Pulp as possible with your fingers and commence to the Fermenting Stage.

Fermenting Stage
1. Turn the tea strainer with its seeds over on top of a plate. Tap out all the seeds into the plate. Set aside while we prepare the fermentation bottle.

2. Using a small funnel, work the seeds out of the plate and into the fermentation bottle made from the juice bottle. When all the seeds are in, add water to about 2/3rds full.
Note #1
If you have the cap for the bottle, carefully drill a 1/4 to 3/8" hole through the top. For safety sake, drill from the inside of the cap out slowly and carefully. With a piece of sandpaper smooth out the hole. You now have a fermentation bottle with a Cap which will look like this.
It will give you years of service. Once you make a few, your good to go!
Note # 2
If you have lost the cap, you can make one out of aluminum foil. Hold it with a rubber band and don't forget to poke a hole in the top to allow air into the bottle. Why? Because fresh air in the bottle allows Aerobic Fermentation to take place. No awful bad smells when you open the bottle. If no fresh air is allowed in, the fermentation will be Anaerobic - without air - and most likely the seeds will rot too and you won't be able to stand the smell. A word to the wise. Always allow air to reach the mixture and shake gently every day. It makes for happy seeds. (;-)


4. With the seeds in the bottle of water and the cap on, set them in a warm place for the left over Pulp and Gel on and around the seeds to ferment. You may see a little foam or the water clouding up. This means the seed is shedding fermented Pulp and Gel. A good sign.

5. Gently shake the bottle a couple of times once a day. After a few days, dump the original water out, add new and set the seeds up on the shelf to continue the fermentation process that will continue to clean the seeds.

6. Continue this process for about a week. Dump out the old water and rinse the seeds still in the bottle thoroughly. Dump the seeds and water back into the sieve . Shake and knock out as much water as you can. Again turn the sieve over as you did before and knock them out into a plate with a coffee filter in it. Now begins the -

Drying Stage.

1. Be sure to label the Drying Plate with the Date, The Name and Possibly the source of the original plant.

2. Set the plate in a warm dry place for the seeds to dry thoroughly. I use a library shelf. Stir the seeds at least once a day. If seeds are clumping together, gently break them apart. The seeds should never be over one layer. Never laying on top of one another. 2 or 3 weeks should be more than sufficient to dry them thoroughly.

3. Pour them into a dry container. I use old pill bottles that have been cleaned out. Or some people go to the hobby store and get change envelopes. In a pinch, you could use a small mailing envelope.

4. Again, Label the seed container with the type of seeds - Tomato - The Variety, and the dated prepared. I also sometimes add the source of the doner tomato. Have Fun!


If you have any comments or questions, please leave them in the comment section. I answer all comments.


Thanks for stopping by!


GrandBob


Copyright Robert Mader 2009


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