Showing posts with label Compost Sifter. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Compost Sifter. Show all posts

Monday, October 3, 2011

Growing Sweet Potato Slips for Your Garden

Growing Sweet Potato Slips 
by Robert Mader

Yes. Sweet Potatoes can be beautiful. You can start growing vines right now. Just pick a nice sized Sweet Potato in the grocery store. Set it in a glass of water. Soon within a week or two, you will have "slips" growing from it. If it was spring (warm enough) you could just take that potato out of the water, cut off a slip (eye with a vine starting from it- about the size of a quarter and about as thick and put it into a small pot with potting soil. Let it get nice roots and plant it out in your garden in a nice sunny spot.

Recently, I have had several letters from folks that want to know how to plant their sweet potatoes outside. Either as an Ornamental or in the Garden to grow their own plot of Sweet Potatoes.

A few weeks ago I  started a new Sweet Potato to get better information on "slips" and show their development. From time to time, I will hopefully get some good pictures to illustrate the process all along the way to planting. This may end up with starting more than one potato because they may grow faster than I want! Spring is a long way off here in South Central Kansas! 



I have done some research lately and below is some of the results:


When the sprouts are about 4 to 6 inches long, carefully twist off the sprout from the potato. Strip a few of the lower leaves off. Lay the stem half in a shallow bowl of water (with leaves out in the air). Roots will start to form in a few days.

When the roots are about 1 inch long, you may plant the slips. Pick a cloudy day or plant near the evening . if you can't finish the planting in one day, put the rest in water again or make a mud slurry in a large bowl in the shady place or inside to keep them until the next day or two.

Water well. water every day for the first week and then every other day. Lengthen out the watering period to about once a week. Your plants should be getting about an inch of "rain" a week.

You will want to start your "slip" growing (setting your potato in water) about 9 weeks before planting in spring. The soil should be warm when the slips are planted out. Also loose.

Here is a few pictures that I have recently taken of a new sweet potato put in water just a few weeks ago.


                                                                                                                                                                    Instead of toothpicks, I decided for strength I would try nails. This was a huge Sweet Potato!  So far - no problems have developed. Perhaps it will develop super "Iron Slips"!  It is just now starting to put out slips but has not put out any roots yet. Roots should develop soon at the bottom. "Slips" or stems are just starting.  The container is actually a cottage cheese tub that I cleaned and spray painted green. I think it looks rather nice and I don't have to beg my wife for a quart jar! 

Sweet Potatoes can produce up to 50 or more slips per potato!


 Each one of the "warts" that you can see above produce a "slip" or growing stem with leaves.  At the upper right corner near the right edge, the dark red-ish large perturbance is the beginning of a new slip. Yes, this  potato is an ugly sucker but it has a lot of potential for a lot of kids! Unlike regular potatoes, Sweet Potatoes don’t have eyes – just tiny slits and bumps all over.

 Here near the bottom of the Sweet Potato you can see 2 new "Slips"  or stems forming along with the new leaves which will eventually turn green.


 At the very bottom.  roots will soon form
 but are not yet visible on this Sweet Potato

 Close-up of a "Slip"

When these "slips" reach from 4 to 6 inches long, they can be twisted carefully off at the base where they first come out of the potato and lay in a shallow bowl of water with the leaves out in the air. (Leaves should be stripped off the bottom half rooting end. These slips or stems will soon form roots. Be sure to change the water every few days to molding and rotting. This won't harm the Sweet Potato much at first but it can take the fun out of your project as the weeks progress!

When the roots of these new slips are an inch or so long, you can plant them out in your spring garden -  assuming the soil is warm enough. If it's warm enough for Green Peppers to grow, it’s probably warm enough for this semi-tropical plant.

 TIP CUTTINGS

If the slips have grown into long vines, 10 to 12 inch cuttings from the Tips of the vines can be snipped off to root instead of Slips. Clean a few leaves off the cut end and insert it in water to root. You should see new roots within a few days or so.

 This was just one slip but already it can be divided and made into 2 plants with plenty of roots to spare. 


As you can see, each leaf nodule is putting out new roots. You can see how the leaf has been snipped off with the little short stubs or nodules left. I literally use a small sharp scissors to cut the leafs of and chop the stem into separate starts to put in water.  When cutting the stems always leave one or two leafs at the top to make food from the light until roots come out of the leaf nodules you cut.


This is the same slip cut into 3 seperate pieces . Two - which both had leafs - were set into plain damp potting soil and watered in. The last piece which only has roots was put into a small jar in the light hopefully to generate l leaf or two before planting. 
NOTES 

1.  A whole potato can be cut into 2 or 3 sections or slices. Bottom Half of each section or slice is set down in the water and the Top half stick out into the light and air. Sections or slices will work just as well as a whole Sweet Potato.

2. For best results, plant the slips from 12 to 18 inches apart in rows about 4 feet wide. The soil should be humped into a Ridge and the Ridge should run down the middle of each row and be about 8 inches high to allow good drainage.

3. For best results, Give the plants an inch of rain a week. Sprinklers should fill a soup can set near your plants with one inch of water. Set several cans around to get an idea of how much you are really watering.  See how much time it takes for the sprinkler to fill the can one inch. Each plant should be given this much watering time with the sprinkler at that setting. This will give you very close to a gallon of water per watering - or one inch of rain. In the heat of the summer, you may have to water more than once a week. To keep my plants alive last summer during our 50+ days of above 100 degree heat, I had to water them every day. And the tomato's still turned out little mummified quarter-sized fruit! Go figure....

4.  Fertilize every few weeks with a LOW Nitrogen type all-purpose fertilizer -  5-10-10 is good. Too much nitrogen (the first number) will give you beautiful green leafy plants with little produce! The plants think they are in heaven already - and wont produce fruit! 

Also make a furrow  a few inches ( 6 inches or 12 Centimeters out ) along side the plants and put about a cup of Bone Meal over a length of 20 feet of row. Cover the furrow and water it enough for the soil to be damp down to about about 5 inches. Once a season is enough. Potatoes need Calcium! Do the same with regular potatoes. A box of Bone Meal will cost you a few bucks and will feed a whole garden full of Sweet Potatoes And your "Yukon Gold's" and "Russets" too.

5. The soil should be rich and light so the tubers can grow easily through out the needed growing space.  Here is a good soil mix:

    1 part Potting Soil                          
1 part Compost
   1 part Peat Moss
Mix well

6. Last of all ( or first maybe I should say) start your Sweet Potatoes for your slips in a warm place with a little sunshine - but not right next to the glass of a window to cook! Optimum temperature would be around 80 degrees (25 Celsius) Lower temperatures in the 70's (20's Celsius) will slow down the growing process but they will still grow. Anything lower will probably not produce slips at all and just rot you Sweet Potato.

Copyright Robert Mader 2011
 All Rights Reserved

Any questions just write me at:              robertlee97@gmail.com


It might take me a day to answer, but I will return your e-mail soon!
Also, please leave a Comment just below this article if you would. We would all like to hear what you think and any new ideas you may have. Until next time.

Cheers!
Bob
GrandBob

Sunday, May 23, 2010

Make This Handy Little Compost Sifter





Step - by - Step Building Instructions
for your own Compost Sifter


Several years ago when I was still very green behind the ears, I decided to learn how to make my own soil mixes for seed starting, potting soil and raised bed gardening. I soon found out that if I was to use composted leaves, kitchen greens, commercial top soil and bagged manure to make my own mixes; I would need an easy, quick, and light way to sift a few gallons of materials at a time. Actually, a few other items would be useful but I will get into this later. So I designed a sifter very simular to the one above but a little bigger. I was younger then. This is suitable for the elderly to use and is made out of better materials. You will see the old one that I finally retired after 20 plus years of use and why I had to retire it. The screen was Still in excellent shape and I cleaned it up, sized it down a little and reused it on the new screen. This screen is made or Galvanized Steel and I had given it a good enamel coat of paint the first time. Most of the paint was still in good shape. I just washed and buffed the screen a little before repainting with a new coat of enamel. I use almost one regular can of enamel spray to finish this job. I like Teal. You can use any color you want!

Lets Get Started

Material List: 

1 - 6 ft Cedar Fence Board (5-1/2" X 72") Usually "Dog Eared" on one end. (You will find it at your local lumber yard or Building Materials store such as Lowes or Home Depot etc). 

1 - 1 ft. X 2 ft.  Galvanized 1/4" inch hole Screen.  Big City Folks call it "Hardware Cloth", I've been told.  Most Hardware stores and Building Materials Stores Carry it. Here in  Kansas -  it's simply "Hail Screen".
For finer sifting, 1/8" Screen can usually be found. Larger Course (and quicker) sifting you might want 1/2" Screen. This is sometimes used by small contractors to sift large rocks out of builders sand etc. 

1 - Wooden Screen Trim. (Once used to hold fly screen material on old-fashioned Wooden Window Screens and Screen Doors.) Now often used as a trim board for wood projects. It's about 3/16 thick, 3/4" wide and 8 ft. long. Found at many Hardware Stores, Lumber Yards and Builder's Supplies Stores such as Home Depot and Lowes.

Other Materials you will need:
A Waterproof Wood Glue. I use TiteBond III. You may also find at your Hardware Store or Builders Supply Store- Elmers Waterproof Wood Glue and Gorilla Glue and others that will also work. Read the label carefully and make sure it clearly says "Waterproof".

About 20 - 3/4 inch Copper Screen Nails - Found where you found the Window Screen Nails. Sometimes found in Winterizing Window Kits that contain plastic sheets and nails. There are found in Hardware Stores, Dollar Stores, Builders Supply Stores etc. Small 1" #4 Galvanized Nails also work fine if you can find them. 
These are used to attach the slats to the frame of the Compost Screener sandwiching the galvanized screen between.

1 - Can of Enamel Spray Paint - Your favorite Color. Found at any Hardware, Builders Supply, WalMart, Dollar Store, Target etc in the Hardware/Tool Department.

A Sheet of #60, 80, or 100 Grit Sandpaper. To smooth rough edges after filing and to smooth the face sides of all  Side pieces.

Tools You Will Need:

A - 1"  "Spade Bit" or "Hole Saw" Bit. (Not necessary if you settle for  square holed Handles. See below.)

A - A Saber Saw with a fine-toothed wood cutting blade. An old-fashioned "Coping Saw" can be used but    is pretty tedious for cutting out handles on the Compost Screener. Believe me "Electric is better"!

A - Small Wood Rasp. Curved one side - Flat on the other. 8" Rasp is fine and should only cost a few dollars.

A -  Square.  . Found in the Hardware or Building Materials Stores. If you can't find one, a "square" piece of paper or cardstock will help you to draw and cut a square cut. Table Saws usually provide their own sliding T -square to hold the board and make a square cut across the board. 

A - Small Tape Measure or Ruler to measure and draw straight lines. 

A - Table Saw.  If you are not acquanted with this tool, now is not the time to learn. Have an experienced friend or neighbor "rip" the sides for your Sifter. Or Use the Saber Saw but don't expect the line to be perfect unless you can clamp on a guide bar (Straight Edge) for your Saber Saw to follow and make perfect line cuts.
A course wood blade can make a fairly fast cut if you are "ripping" with a Saber Saw. "Ripping" means to cut in the direction of the wood grain - Usually along the length of the boards.
However, Saber Saws can also give you a nasty cut. Be careful at all times to be sure you don't have a finger or leg near the moving blade. 

Stock 
Stock Pieces are preliminary cuts of pieces from your larger boards to get the parts close to size. Always starting with the largest pieces first and working down to the smaller pieces. This assures you that you have enough wood to cut all the pieces that you need and in such a fashion as to leave you with the least waste.This is a good practice to follow with any wood project. All your Stock Pieces will be cut from the Cedar Fence Board.

The Photo below shows the cuts on the board using a red marker for visibility. I have left a 1/8 inch space between each cut. There is plenty of board so you may cut further down on the board. This is a stock cut. Not the Finish cut. That's why the lengths are a little longer if the board you are cutting from allows for it. You will take these stock pieces and later cut them to exact length and width needed.


1. Make a nice square cut across the full end Fence Board. Use a  square to check that you are making a clean square cut across the board. 
2. Cut 2 - 18 inch boards one after the other.

3. Cut 2 - 12 inch boards one after the other.




Cut 4 Finished Pieces From Stock Pieces

Now we will take the Stock Pieces (4 sides pieces) and cut the down to the exact finished size.
We will not only be cutting to exact length, we will be "ripping the boards to the exact widths

1. Rip the 2 Sides to 4" inches wide.

2. Rip the 2 End pieces to 5" wide.

3.  Cut the 2 Sides to be exactly 16" long.

4. Cut the 2 Ends to be exactly 10" long.




Preparing the Ends for Handles

We will now position and draw out the Handle on each End Piece. 

1. Find the middle of the End Pieces and draw a line to show the center of the board. Draw down about 2-1/2". Here is where the  Square will come in handy. Your End Boards should look something like this.



                                
2. From the Center measure out 2" from the center line on each side. Again, using your  square, draw a 2-1/2" vertical line from the top down at these 2 points on both boards. Your End Boards should now look like this:


Notice that the Centering Line runs all the way across the board and here is designated "C L" or "Center Line".   A 2-1/2" line is shown on both sides of the line.              

3. Again, Measure down on the 2 side lines 1" on both boards. . Make a dot on each line. Draw a horizontal line connecting the dots.   This is the Solid Black Lined in the Picture.



4. On those same vertical lines, measure down from the top - 2 inches. Make another dot on each vertical line.  Again draw a horizontal line between the dots.

                            

5.   Measure down on the two side lines 1-1/2 inches. Make a dot. Draw a third line parallel with the other two top and bottom lines connecting the 2 dots just drawn.



6  You should now have a rectangular box centered on the End Pieces. Located 1" from the top of both end boards, looking like this:



                                                  
7. If you are willing to settle for a rectangular hole for a handle, all you need to do now skip #8 and cut out the hole (box with black lines)  with your Saber Saw or Coping Saw. 

 For a more pleasing look and more comfortable fitting handle. Go on to step #8.

8. From each end of the handle - using the center horizontal line - measure in 1/2 inch and make a dot. This is the exact center point to set your  1" spade bit or hole saw bit. Drilling at this point should give you handle ends with nice half circles when your finished cutting out the complete handle.   First, check the NOTE below!                  



NOTE
When cutting out the circles, always cut from both sides of the board to avoid jagged "break-outs" caused from sawing from one side only. The center point of the blade coming through on the other side, is your guide. Just turn the board over and insert the blade in this hole.Cut until a "plug" Falls out from the center of the 1" holes you have just made.  Your board should look like this:

      



9. Where the top of the hole meets the horizontal line across the handle, saw to the other hole top.
 Likewise cut the bottom horizontal line.



To Finish up the ends, measure along the top from each end, 3". Make a small mark. Measure down from the top on each end, 1". Make a small mark. Draw a line connecting the dots on both ends.


Cut the Angled Ends off of the End Pieces  with your Saber Saw.     Your 2 Ends should now look like this:
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         

Clean-Up Work on Sides and Ends.

1.  Using the wood rasp with the finest cut, smooth  and round off  the top edges of the ends. Do the Handles the same. Do not rasp the ends of the End Pieces. 

2. Using the Sandpaper, smooth all edges and faces of the 4 side pieces. Do not round off the ends or the corners of your assemble Compost Sifter will have weird indentions instead of nice square edges when your done..


Glue and Nail the Sides Together to Make a Bottomless Box
For Best Results, put 3 nails into each end of each Side Piece. See Photo.


 Nail so that the point just pierces the wood on the other side. This will allow you to set the two pieces together more accurately later. Apply the Glue and Nail the Bottomless Box Together. It should look like this when you are finished assembling the box frame:


Attaching the Bottom Screening

1. Trim the Screen to exactly fit the bottom. Trim about 1/16 of an inch all around the screen so that no wire sticks past the edges to cause you scratches later on.

    

2. Trim 2 screen slats to fit the length of the sides (16"). Set 3 Copper Nails into the slots. One at each end and about 1" in from the end and one near the center.



3. Apply Wood Glue to the bottom of the strip. Make sure screen is properly aligned and not sticking over anywhere. Nail the strips down upon the sides and securing the sides of the screen.


4. Cut a screen slat for each end to fit between the Side slats just installed. They  shouldn't fit too snug to avoid warping. On the other hand, do not leave any wide cracks at the joints. Put in 3 copper nails as you did with the Side Strips and apply glue throughly to the back side (side to the screen and End Boards. Nail Down. Your Compost Sifter is almost done.




 The Finishing Touch



Apply at least 2 coats of paint. For a smoother finish, allow the two coats to dry throughly, sand lightly with 125 to 200 Grit Sandpaper. Wipe of the dust throughly, and give 2 more light coats of paint. Since this Compost Sifter is made of Cedar; it should last twice as long as my old sifter. Mine was made of Common Pine.

Additional Handy Garden Items to Have

A Small Wheelbarrow. Although it's time to repaint it, my little wheelbarrow has lasted me for several years and  is perfect for sifting and mixing small amounts of potting soil etc. 

 

I lay my Compost Sifter in the wheelbarrow. Pour the ingrediants into the Sifter, and sift everything into the wheelbarrow. If you have several ingredients to sift and mix; just lay the sifter on top of the pile as it grows and add the new sifted ingredient to the total contents of the Wheelbarrow.

This small wheelbarrow can still be found at most Ace Hardware Stores. I got mine several years ago at Westlake Ace Hardware located at 3110 E Douglas - Wichita Kansas. It costs about $35. 

A Galvanized Animal Feed Pan. These are about 14 inches in Diameter and about 4 inches Deep. Used to feed and water Small Livestock  like Goats and Sheep or as a Chicken Smorgasboard for several chickens - and Big Dogs with a healthy appetites!. 

The Galvanized coating is a little thin. But even if you eventually get a few tiny rust holes,  it's still good for mixing  and holding a reasonable amount of potting soil. And it will be usable for several years.  It's especially handy because it is not deep which makes for easy mixing with a Garden Trowel. It's easy to hold with one hand, and mix with the other. A great appliance for the price!. Locally about $4.69.

I found mine at Atwoods of Derby, Kansas. These should also be available at most "Feed and Seed" stores and some hardware stores.  

A Good Garden Trowel. The wide ones work best for mixing. True Value Hardware Stores have very good ones. Make sure they are solid steel. Forget the Variety Store,  Fancy Garden Trowels. They Look very sturdy but they fall apart at the handles almost immediately after you use them. Don't waste your money.

The price for a Good Trowel starts at about $7 New. Sometimes you can find these kind of Garden Trowels at Garage Sales for a buck or 2. Keep an eye out!

This concludes this article. I hope you get a lot of use out of your new Compost Sifter.

If you have found this article useful,  Please let me know so that I can continue to bring informative and useful articles to you.  Leave a comment. or just post me at RobertLee97@Gmail.com. I answer all letters. I'm not a big shot - just a little shot. Every reader is important and appreciated by me. Letters are Most appreciated!

Bob
Grandbob


Copyright Robert Mader 2010
All Rights Reserved
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